Much has been written of the Gallipoli campaign and the battlefields on which it was fought. Few that have been to the Gallipoli battlefield would fail to be moved by the experience; the view from Shell Green cemetery, the absolute proximity of the Anzac and Turkish trenches at the Nek, the shear ruggedness of the terrain, a headstone with the simple eulogy ‘mate o’ mine’.
The battlefield can be experienced with the aid of a guided tour (recommended for orientation even for the experienced traveler or budding historian) and can also be explored in detail.
Visitors can experience the cramped conditions of the rebuilt trenches at the Nek, and using a compass and maps (in our case, marginal maps from CW Bean’s official history – which appear quite accurate) it is still possible to trace many parts of the trench system, although trenches are now simple depressions in the ground. This exploration in detail is particularly rewarding; we found we could accurately predict the placement of trench junctions and orientation using this technique, although with the benefit of being above the ground in peacetime, rather than in a trench. We were able explore most of the Anzac Cove battlefield in detail over a period of 4 days.
The brevity of the cost of the Gallipoli campaign, on both sides, is most evident at each of the cemeteries dotted around the battlefield. In the allied cemeteries the fallen that could be identified have headstones to mark their burial. Those with no known grave are commemorated in lists on the cemetery walls.
The sound of the Huka being performed at the NZ Monument on Hill 60 carrying on the breeze to where we stood at the Lone Pine cemetery was a particularly poignant moment.
With the help of a local diver we had the opportunity to snorkel off Anzac Cove; several boat hulks lay submerged within 150 metres of the shore and can be easily accessed from the beach; diving on them is an eerie experience (NOTE we strongly recommend you do not attempt this without expert local help).
If you haven’t been to Gallipoli but always thought you should, make sure you do it.
The Gallipoli peninsular is relatively quiet most of the year (around Anzac Day being the exception). Gallipoli is an immensely rewarding and deeply moving experience that you will never forget.